Just like a car or lawnmower needs its oil to be regularly changed, so does a chainsaw

What's the best oil to use?

It's actually a double task for a chainsaw as both the engine oil and bar oils need to be replaced.Rust

This page was last edited on 27 May 2018, at 16:03. Content is available under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 unless otherwise noted. Game content and materials are trademarks and copyrights of their respective publisher and its licensors. In fact, there are some options for how to fuel chainsaw rust that involve changing the filter and the whole fuel system, instead of just the engine. These chainsaws have an electrical fuel pump that is able to directly supply fuel to the chainsaw. Is this a new glitch or is it meant to be in the game? Tell me if you know.-Ignore#shorts #rust.


It's part of a good chainsaw maintenance regime.
We don't need to teach you to suck eggs on how important it is for the bar and chain to be well oiled, you just want to know what are the best oil brands out there to use.

Let's start with the best bar and chain oils

If you want to take our word for, here are three options which will serve your chainsaw well:

If you want to do things right and by the book in terms of good maintenance, you would do well to consider an oil product that has been specifically designed to be used with a chainsaw.
Choosing the best kind of oil can mean the difference in having a chain that does its job well and for a long period or a chain that is battered and bruised and refuses to cut properly.

There are a few variables to think about.
  • Will the weather conditions dictate what kind of oil is used?
  • How often will the chainsaw be used?
  • What is the temperature at which the saw will operate?
  • How environmentally conscious are you?
  • Price per gallon / litre because let's face it, money talks.
Do not use car engine oil as it is not designed to 'stick' to a chain.
And most certainly do not use recycled motor engine oil as it is a used product which will most likely have small metal pieces in it which will quite likely damage the internal workings of the chainsaw's engine.
Many famous chainsaw brands (and lawnmower manufacturers too) have their own branded oil and bar products and generally speaking those products will do the job for most chainsaws, let alone the branded item.
If you want to go for a trusted brand name, then Husqvarna's Bar and Chain Oil is what you are looking for:

Husqvarna Company is known for making the most reliable and durable products to take care of a multitude of outdoor needs.
  • Designed for use with all Husqvarna chainsaw models
  • Premium blend of base stocks and tackifier additives, which reduces high speed throw-off
  • Extends bar, chain and sprocket life by protecting against wear
  • Optimizes cutting performance by reducing heat and friction
  • Is good for all year round use, including winter
Some players who used the product left some sweet reviews on Amazon about this oil:

'Great oil for chainsaw chain, sticks to chain very well'
'Top grade Husqvarna bar oil. I bought a new Husky450 and wanted the best for it. Good price for a top-shelf product as well. Will buy again'
'Does an excellent lubrication job without throwing oil off like some inferior brands. Well worth the price to protect your chain and your saw.'
'Really does the job. Stays on the saw bar and chain a lot better than just motor oil.'
So if this sounds like Husqvarna's oil is for you, check out the price on Amazon.

It's not a state, it's Oregon oil


Another popular oil is produced by Oregon.How to use chainsaw rust

Chainsaw Rust

As far as we're concerned Oregon as a brand is up there with Stihl and Husqvarna as a word that means it’s a 'quality product'.

Oregon state that their bar and chain oil is specifically compounded to provide extra high tackiness and prevent 'throw off' even under adverse weather conditions.
Which is just a polite way of saying they make good oil.
Oregon also claims that their oil's high film-strength prevents wear or scuffing of chain links and bars while protecting metal parts against corrosion and rust.
They also say that it resists build-up of deposits such as pitch, sap or gum.
Here's some reviews from machinists who've bought and used Oregon oil:
'Great for keeping your bar lubed, terrible for making salad dressing.'
This makes perfect sense eh? What about a more serious review:
'Saw runs perfectly with this oil. No smoking or anything. Definitely has smooth cuts in the trees I was cutting. No complaints and I'll buy this again when I run out.'

How To Use A Chainsaw Rust

'It's Oregon bar oil. Does exactly what it's supposed to. No complaints.

If there was a complaint to be made by users of this product is that it can seem thinner than other oils and this can be off-putting if you are expecting a syrupy goo.
Whatever, it's Oregon!

Poulan Bar and Oil


The Poulan brand name is used primarily for outdoor power equipment, such as chainsaws, lawn mowers, and leaf blowers, aimed at the mid-level consumer market. Which probably means you, dear reader!
And since you are a dear reader, I'm going to let in on an industry secret >> The Poulan brand is owned by Husqvarna!
Howabout that eh?
This means that you can trust the Poulan brand because Husqvarna trusted it enough to buy the whole damn company.
Here's Poulan's Bar and Chain oil offering:
By now, you know the drill of what benefits bar and chain oil will give your chainsaw but Poulan want you to know that their product is 'formulated for use by the logging industry, this oil helps prevent rust, resists high-temperatures, flows freely at low temperatures and has the ability to resist the extreme pressures bars and chains.'

Which sounds like marketing really so what do actual users of the oil have to say in their reviews about its performance in their machines?
'I use this on my Stihl ms280 chainsaw and it works great. Better than Stihl bar and chain oil it seems. With the Stihl oil, I would always notice the chain-smoking after a heavy cutting session. I have yet to see anything like that with this oil. This oil is also tackier and appears a little heavier than the Stihl oil.'
'Just what my chainsaws needed a bit of a lube job. Easy pouring and tight seal on the container. No mess. great quality.'
'What can you say, it's oil, the viscosity is formulated correctly so it stays on the chain and bar and doesn't run off during operation. It does the function it was designed for.'
So there you have it, Poulan's product does the job you need. Check out the price on Amazon.


Look mate, I've read all this guff, I just want some cheap oil!


Well here you go friend:

Do I need a thick oil for my chainsaw?


We're talking about the viscosity of your chain oil here. Generally speaking, the thicker the oil, the better it will be at staying on the chain. A key point at play here is that weathers' temperature will have an effect on the oil.
The warmer the oil, the more fluid it will become.

Should I use a 'green' oil on my bar?


In this modern era of environmental practices, one could consider using a substitute biodegradable oil.
This is especially so if cutting near waterways or environments of special significance. We would suggest that if you use a vegetable based oil, you don't mix it with a petroleum-based oil as the mixing can cause gunk to build up.

Can you put motor oil on a bar / chain?


You can do this and your chain will benefit somewhat from the lubrication but in the long term, it's not an ideal solution as it is not designed to be sticky.
Motor oil has not been designed to work on such a chainsaw so you could impede the efficiency of the chain in the long term.
Some keen cost savers even go as far as using used motor engine oil. Again, you will get the effect of lubrication but be warned used motor engine oil can contain fragments of metal which will damage your bar and chain over time, rendering their effectiveness low.
We suspect used motor engine oil will make your chain blunt - leading you to need to sharpen the chain more regularly.
If you do want to save money (and fair enough too!) then some woodsman like to steal their wife's pantyhose and strain the oil through them to help remove any metal parts!
If your lawn mower is thirsty, check out the best small engine oils.

Can you use Husqvarna bar oil in a Stihl chainsaw?

We saw this question asked on the net and at face value, you could think it's a silly question to ask as yes, you can use other brands with other brands - while some manufacturers may state to use only their brand with their products, this is just a sales tactic - if it's the right kind of oil for your chainsaw, you sure can use it - so it is fine to add Husqvarna oil to your Stihl saw, and vice versa.
Finally, you can use these general oils with electric chainsaws as well.
Need to start a flooded chainsaw? Here's how. Or what about replacing the spark plug?
bar and chain oil,electric chainsaw,husqvarna,maintenance,oregon,poulan

Restoring old tools to put back to use or decoration is a hobby of mine. I love seeing the transformation of a sad old rusted saw turning back into a sharp, usable hand saw that looks great. Whether you are cleaning up some of Grandpa’s tools or found a deal at the garage sale, this guide will help you to safely restore your hand saw.

Restore an old rusted handsaw by loosening and removing the saw nuts, and disassembling the handle and saw plate. The sawplate can have all the rust removed and polished in about 30 minutes. Old varnish on the handle can be sanded or stripped, and the saw nuts can be cleaned by soaking in soapy water.

There are four primary steps to restoring an old hand saw

Step 1 – Disassemble the handle and saw nuts from the saw plate

Step 2 – Clean and polish the saw nuts / hardware

Step 3 – Remove rust from the saw plate

Step 4 – Refinish the saw handle

Materials

The following materials will help you to restore an old saw. There are lots of substitutions that can be made based on your judgement and experience. The only thing I would caution you on is following the directions of any chemical stripper (if you choose to go that route).

Also, we have links to all of these tools available at our recommended products page.

Materials for cleaning the saw nuts

  • Laundry detergent
  • Brass Brush

Materials for cleaning the saw plate

  • Simple Green cleaner in a spray bottle
  • Razor Blade Scraper
  • Wet or dry sand paper, 400 & 600 grit
  • 3m Scotch Brite scouring pad
  • Metal polish
  • Paste Wax
  • Shop Towels or cotton rags

Materials for restoring the saw handle

  • Pocket knife
  • Plastic Scraper (so you don’t damage the wood)
  • Sand Paper: 120, 150, 220 grit
  • Citrus Strip chemical stripper (Optional)
  • Jasco low VOC mineral spirits
  • Steel wool #0000
  • Boiled Linseed Oil, or Tru Oil

Process to restore an old rusty hand saw

You should plan on doing most of this work in a well ventilated area that can get messy. Using a workbench in a garage or a portable workmate works great. I have an old scrap sheet of plywood that I perform all of my rust removal on, as that way I can keep work surfaces a bit cleaner.

Disassembling the saw handle and plate

1 – Loosen the saw nuts with a large flat-head screwdriver. If they are seized, spray a little WD-40 to loosen them and wait 5 minutes. Then try again.

2 – Use a punch and hammer, or a small screwdriver to gently tap out the saw nuts. Set the saw nuts and screws aside.

3 – Carefully slide the hand off the saw plate

How to clean Saw Nuts and Saw Screws

Soak the saw nuts in a 1:4 solution of laundry detergent and water over night. Soak them for at least 8 hours. This will loosen up most of the grime and dirt.

After soaking the nuts, scrub the saw nuts with a brass bristled brush. Then, polish with steel wool.

How to clean an remove rust from the saw plate

Note – I STRONGLY advise you not to use vinegar, citric acid, or Evapo-rust to remove the rust from the saw plate. Doing so can leave a dark finish, pits, or remove the etching. It takes about the same amount of time (or less) to manually remove rust, and you will be left with a nice looking saw.

1 – Use a razor blade scraper to remove large pieces of rust. This will save your sand paper for the smaller bits. File the corners of the razor blade so it doesn’t leave track marks on the saw plate.

2 – Continue removing rust using 400 grit wet or dry sand paper. Use Simple Green cleaner to lubricate the plate as you go. This will help keep the sand paper from clogging. And the rust/water mixture can be wiped up with paper towels.

As an additional tip – using a hard rubber block to hold the sand paper makes this job much easier.

Be very careful with this step, as if there is an etch present on the saw, you will find it. If you aggressively sand the plate, you may lose the etching.

You can continue to 600 grit once the rust is mostly gone. The 600 grit is optional, based on how nice you want the saw to look.

3 – Use scotchbrite pad with simple green to further clean the saw plate. This will remove much dirt and grime from the grooves of the steel where the sand paper cannot go.

4 – Apply metal polish to the saw plate and buff with a shop towel, or cotton cloth. I used Flitz metal polish on this saw.

5 – Apply a coat of paste wax to the entire plate. This will help prevent future corrosion.

How to clean and refinish a wooden saw handle

Refinishing a saw handle can be done several ways. But each way has the same goal – to remove varnish. There are many ways to remove varnish, and I choose my method based on the type of handle.

1 – Remove old varnish. If the saw handle has ornate leaf carving, then you have to use chemical stripper to loosen the varnish. There isn’t another way to get varnish out of those small grooves. If that sort ot detail is not present, then you can just scrape it off with a pocket knife or by heating the handle and scraping it off.

I use a disposable foam paint brush to apply Citrus Strip to the handle. Then, I wait an hour or so before coming back to scrap off as much as I can remove.

But if using a chemical stripper, make sure you are in a well ventilated area. Also, follow all instructions on the bottle. I use Citrus Strip because it is safer than others. To remove the varnish in the small leaf indentations, I use a tooth pick.

After you’ve removed the varnish, scrub with mineral spirits and steel wool. This will help remove all trace of the chemical stripper, which is pretty nasty stuff.

2 – Sand the saw handle smooth. Depending on how much varnish is still present, sand down the handle. If there is a thin coating of varnish left, or you didn’t use any stripper start with an aggressive grit such as 60 or 80. Then continue to higher grits such as 150 up to 220.

You need to have bare wood in order to have a new finish grip and protect the handle.

3 – Apply new finish to the handle. Old saw handles are generally made of fruit wood and look quite nice. Use boiled linseed oil for a natural finish. Or you can use Tru Oil or Danish Oil for a darker colored finish.

Just wipe the finish on evenly using Shop Towels and let dry for about 24 hours. Make sure you either burn the towels or lay them out to dry. As many finishes can spontaneously combust if they are left crumpled up in a pile.

Reassemble the saw

To reassemble the saw, just reverse the steps you took to disassemble it. Take care when inserting the saw nuts. These are square, and have to fit in the hole properly.

Also, do not over-torque the saw nuts. Just get them snug. If they loosen up with use, just re-tighten them.

Sharpen the saw

You can now sharpen the saw if you intend to put it to use. Sharpening the saw is quite easy, as you can make your own saw chocks and just use a regular bench top vise.

Don’t use vinegar, citric acid, or Evoporust on hand saws!

Look, I like using chemicals to remove rust. It can be a great time saver and even Eco-friendly. Sometimes it is even necessary when the parts are intricate with small cavities, etc. But you should never use vinegar or acid on a hand saw. It will cause an ugly finish, and may cause pitting or dissolve the saw plate entirely.

How vinegar and acid damage old steel

Steel is just a mixture of iron and carbon. And while it should not be possible for vinegar or citric acid to damage the steel chemically, it often happens. Why is this?

Well, old steel isn’t as pure as we would like. There are many different impurities throughout the steel. And it is these impurities that will cause the ugly finish, pitting, and sometimes destruction of an old tool.

So – protect Grandpa’s tools! Use elbow grease to remove rust, not vinegar!

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